How to Install Baseboard Moulding to Add Instant Character in Your Home?
For various reasons, many homeowners are apprehensive about learning how to properly install baseboard moldings in their homes, including the general danger associated with openings that are not adequately sealed off in their homes.
While it may seem daunting and challenging, learning to install baseboard moldings on your own can make you capable of changing the room’s look anytime and in any way you want. For the most part, baseboard moldings are small, thin strips of plastic affixed to the wall with little to no space between each strip of plastic. If you want to make a more dramatic statement with your décor, you’ll need to learn how to install baseboard molds to fill in the gaps and give your home a more dramatic appearance.
Tools and Materials That Are Needed
Based on your specific situation and requirements, you can choose from a variety of different baseboard styles. The tools and supplies you’ll need will vary depending on the style you want. If you’ve already completed the baseboards, you should be able to finish the project with only the bare minimum of materials and time investment. However, beginners in the craft would require all the assistance they can get.
Here are the materials and tools needed to install and attach baseboard molding for home décor. Make sure to keep everything ready before beginning.
- Miter saw
- Coping saw
- 4-foot level
- 6-inch circular saw
- 25-foot tape measure
- Block plane
- Biscuit joiner
- Chalk line
- Pneumatic nailer
Steps for Installing Baseboard
When it comes to the amount of moisture in your basement, you may want to consider installing baseboard moldings in your home to protect your investment from further damage. In the long run, this is a decision that can save you a significant amount of money and time in the long run. You must also carefully consider the steps involved in installing baseboard molding – so do your homework thoroughly before proceeding!
Here are some fundamental guidelines to follow to accomplish your objective:
1. Job in the planning stages – Make sure to measure, label, and tag your completed assignment
- Pay close attention to how accurately the baseboards on all of your walls are trimmed.
- The boards must be a few inches higher than the wall.
- Fasten them securely to allow for miter cutting at the corners of the panels meeting at the edges of the boards.
- Notice the number printed on the back of each board. And a duplicate number of the same printed on each of the walls where the panels will be displayed.
- Identify and mark the screw locations clearly on the wall to provide a solid foundation for attaching the baseboards to the walls.
- Remove the baseboards from the walls and place them on the floor. This will help save both time and money.
2. Calculate the thickness of the baseboards and then cut them to size
- If the surface is not flat, place a 4′ leveling device on the flooring near the walls and check it with a leveling instrument.
- If this is not possible, drag the leveling across the floor until it reaches its lowest point.
- The baseboards should be attached to the walls using nails at this point (you should use nails/screws only on the front portion of the baseboards).
- Use the upper portion of this baseboards piece as a reference point to draw straight lines on the wall a few feet apart all around the room, starting at the top of the baseboards piece and working your way down.
- If necessary, draw a chalk line around the room’s perimeter, with a space between each line to indicate where you will install the upper section of the baseboards later on. Repeat this process all around the room.
- First, place one or two nails in each corner of the first board against the walls, level it, and nail it in place with one or two more nails. Repeat this procedure for all of the remaining plywood boards.
- This procedure will need to be repeated for the remaining boards.
- Position the compass to cover the greater of the two angles between the chalk line and one of the top corners of the panel at this location.
3. Draw something to hold on to for added security
- Mark the baseboards and the location of the compasses on the flooring with a marker pen.
- Make sure that the prongs of the compass are not too far apart from one another.
- Ensure that the compass points remain correctly oriented as you move the compass down the floor the entire length of the board.
- Then, using a round saw with a 2-5 degree bevel, cut along the marked line, making sure that the cut edge is on the side of the wall closest to the scribes’ lines.
- Use a blocking plane to cut the beveled edge down to the line with the straight edge of the plane.
- When reattaching the baseboards to the walls, align the top section of each scribbled baseboard with a chalk line snapped in Step 2 to flush with the walls.
4. Use screws to attach the baseboards to the wall surfaces
- Check to see that the baseboard with the stenciled design is in the proper position.
- Two 8d finishing screws should be drilled or hammered into each stud position, at a slight angle, just adjacent to the above and below board borders, just adjacent to the above and below board borders, just adjacent to the above and below board borders.
- Repeat the preceding steps a second time for each stud position in the chain.
- To avoid leaving any visible marks on your board, use a screw set to press the tips of the screws just below surface level with the wood.
5. Draw lines at points where you need to join the outer corners
- While gluing one end of the board firmly to the inside edge (or covers), draw a perpendicular line up the backside of the board.
- Implement this process by following the edge of the outer corner from one end to the other end of the board.
- It is recommended that a slight indentation be made near the very top of the baseboard to serve as a visual cue to the miter’s orientation.
- Mark the board to be used for the other half of the miter by placing it against the opposite wall.
- You should do it in the same manner as you did on the baseboard designated for the miter.
6. Using a miter-gauge on the outside corner joints
- Cut baseboard corners at an angle of 40-45° on a composite miter saw should be set so that each miter is cut beyond the lines. In this case, the joint may perform admirably.
- Reposition the two pieces of wood against the walls in the exact location where they were placed initially, and inspect the joint once more for damage.
- When you return to the saw, you can shape the woodwork with block planes until it is snug on the top and sides, then finish the project.
7. Places on the roster should be marked over on the biscuits
- Outside miter connections are held together with glue and crushed biscuits (number 10) to keep them tight outside the building.
- To begin, tightly clamp the two interfaces together against the outer corner of the joint and mark the common with a ruler in two locations across the joint, starting at the outer corner.
- Their placement around the perimeter of the board must be evenly spaced and uniform in their distribution.
- The biscuits’ joiner should be oriented so that the cutting faces of the biscuits are parallel to the fences when being assembled.
- Adjust the thickness of the fences – this act will assist you in cutting closer to the back half of the baseboards after the same has been removed.
- Align the instrument’s midline with a marking and then plunge-cut the slots into the cutting faces using the plunge-cutting tool.
- At the next checkpoint, repeat the procedure until the task is completed.
8. Linearly assemble the biscuit joiners
- Fill both slots with hardware adhesive and spread it evenly across the surface of either side of the miter cut to ensure that it is securely attached to the work surface.
- After that, slide a biscuit into every other slot on one of the boards and replace baseboards by securely attaching the two boards.
- Replacing the wallboards and driving two eight-inch finishing screws into the walls on either side of the miter joint will be necessary to complete this project successfully.
- Drill a 4d finishing screw through the joint.
- And repeat the same into the longer side of the opposite piece. Do it from where you had initially placed the first and second nails.
- Complete the joint between the first and second nails/screws.
- Use a nail set to nail baseboards into the wood surface.
- Once you’ve reached a point where two boards meet in a straight line and an exposed stud, miter the ends in opposite directions to create the scarf junction.
- First, glue and slightly overlap the miters together. Then use nails to nail through the piece that conceals the junction (not through the intersection itself) and into the stud.
- Baseboards should be butted together as a single piece and attached to the walls with a finishing clip for a professional finish on the inner edges.
9. Secure the cap molding using screws
- To determine whether or not a capping mold will fit tightly against a wall when in use, place it on the bases and inspect it against the wall from all sides.
- It should be secured to the wall at each stud with an 8D nail hammered at an angle. Do not forget to beat the same through the thicker parts of the molding and into the wall stud.
- If there are gaps behind the molding and there is no screw to nail into, squeeze a bead of construction glue over the molding back. This way, you can attach the molding to the stud as described above.
- Screw the molding into place between the two studs to ensure that it will last longer until the glue dries.
10. Sand down the cap molding to make it look more polished
- Clamping the inner corners of capped moldings together will ensure that the connectors are tightly connected.
- When joining the outer edges together, use the exact measuring and slicing techniques as Step 4 to ensure a strong bond.
- Miter joints are made of thin molding held together with biscuits or screws, and if you use these methods to keep them together, you run the risk of breaking the molding.
- Form a scarf junction where two caps connect on a large wall, as shown in Step 8, and install baseboard heating.
- To ensure that there are no sharp corners, use medium sandpaper to carefully smooth all mitered edges.
- It is now time to refinish or decorate the baseboard trim that has been prepped and ready.
After you’ve purchased the baseboard moldings, you can either install them yourself using the methods outlined above. You can also hire a professional to do it for you after you’ve completed the purchase. It would be best to communicate to the person you have chosen to know what will happen and what you expect in the future.
The work should take no more than an hour to complete; once it is completed, your home will be transformed immediately, without the need for any further changes required. Follow this guide closely to improve the interiors of your home, giving your home a sophisticated look while significantly increasing your quality of life. Furthermore, you can also take on such projects to become a DIY expert, which will undoubtedly help in all your future endeavors in improving your home.